On jackets, the shoulder straps are called epaulettes (epaulets); born in the military to secure gear or show rank, they now add style.
Open a trench coat or a field jacket and you’ll spot a narrow fabric loop near the shoulder seam with a button at one end. That little detail has a name with a long backstory. In short, the strap is an epaulette (also spelled epaulet). You’ll also hear people say shoulder strap, shoulder tab, or passant in tailoring circles. The idea started in uniforms, moved into civilian outerwear, and stuck because it’s useful and looks sharp.
What Are The Straps On The Shoulders Of A Jacket Called? – Common Names And Uses
Different industries prefer different terms. In tailoring and fashion retail, epaulette is the everyday label. In uniform manuals, you’ll see related parts called shoulder marks, rank slides, or shoulder boards. On classic trench coats, the same strap shows up as a functional design cue that nods to the garment’s military roots.
Shoulder Strap Terms At A Glance
| Term | Typical Use | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Epaulette / Epaulet | Military, aviation, fashion | Decorative or functional shoulder strap; can carry insignia. |
| Shoulder Strap | General fashion | Plain-language name for the same feature. |
| Passant | Tailoring term | Small strap parallel to the shoulder seam that the epaulette passes under. |
| Shoulder Mark | Uniforms | Flat cloth sleeve that slides over a strap and shows rank. |
| Rank Slide | Uniforms | Another name for a shoulder mark used to display insignia. |
| Shoulder Board | Uniforms | Stiff board or tab that bears rank; often formal wear. |
| Trench Epaulette | Fashion, heritage outerwear | Buttoned strap on trench coats; references wartime design. |
| Pilot Epaulette | Aviation | Strap with stripes that indicate license level or seniority. |
Where The Word Comes From
The word epaulette comes from French and traces to “épaule,” meaning shoulder. Dictionaries capture the modern sense neatly: a decorative or functional piece at the shoulder of a uniform or jacket. If you want a crisp, plain definition, see the Britannica entry for “epaulet”, which anchors the spelling and usage used across tailoring and uniform references.
How Epaulettes Moved From Barracks To Streetwear
Epaulettes solved a simple problem in uniformed life: keeping straps and gear from sliding off the shoulder while also signaling rank. Trench coats carried that feature into mass production. Over time, the strap stayed even when the gear went away because it balanced the coat’s proportions and gave the shoulder line a crisp, structured look. Many heritage makers still describe epaulettes as a rank display and a nod to function; for a clear summary from a brand that helped popularize the trench, see Burberry’s short history page, which notes that the trench’s epaulettes originally displayed an officer’s rank and the belt’s D-rings carried equipment (Burberry heritage).
What Epaulettes Do On Modern Jackets
On today’s coats, epaulettes are far more than decoration. They can:
- Hold a bag strap in place during a commute.
- Secure gloves, a cap, or sunglasses under the tab.
- Frame the shoulder line so a soft fabric sits cleaner.
- Give a military or utility vibe that pairs with boots, denim, and leather.
Designers tweak the size and angle to change the effect. A long, slim strap reads sleek. A short, wide tab reads rugged. On cropped jackets, a small tab keeps the proportions tidy. On long coats, a broader epaulette balances the larger collar and lapel.
What Are The Straps On The Shoulders Of Jackets Called? – Fit, Placement, And Anatomy
This exact question pops up in fittings and in forums. The direct answer is epaulettes, yet the part you see includes smaller bits that matter to a tailor:
Core Parts
- Tab: The outer piece you spot, usually top-stitched and pointed or squared at the end.
- Button: Fixed near the collarbone area to close the tab.
- Passant: The hidden loop or under-strap that the tab threads through so it sits flat.
- Shoulder Seam: The line the strap parallels; clean alignment keeps the jacket looking neat.
Placement Tips
- The tab should sit parallel to the shoulder seam, not tilt toward the neck.
- Pointed ends look longer; square ends feel more utilitarian.
- Buttons closer to the collar give a sharper line; buttons farther out feel casual.
Common Variations Across Garments
Trench Coats
Traditional trenches keep a medium-width epaulette with a matching top-stitch and a single button. Many also include a storm flap and throat latch, which work with the strap to manage wind and rain. The shoulder strap can take a slim scarf or glove safely under the tab.
Field Jackets And Parkas
Utility outerwear often carries wider tabs so a bag strap or binoculars stay put. Heavy canvas needs a sturdy button shank so the tab doesn’t sag.
Leather Jackets
On leather, epaulettes are cut from the same hide and may be slightly padded to stand proud. A low-profile snap replaces a button when a shank button would feel bulky.
Uniform Shirts
Short-sleeve uniform shirts often use a slim strap meant to carry a removable shoulder mark or rank slide. In that setup, the epaulette is the base; the slide carries the insignia and slips over it.
How To Style Jackets With Epaulettes
Because epaulettes draw the eye outward, they subtly widen the shoulder line. That helps balance fuller hips or add presence to a narrow frame. A few quick pairing ideas:
- Smart Casual: Khaki trench with dark denim, knit polo, and loafers.
- Weekday Commute: Navy field jacket with chinos and plain leather sneakers.
- Evening: Black leather jacket with a fine-gauge turtleneck and tailored trousers.
Keep the rest of the outfit simple. The strap is already a design signal. Too many pockets or large hardware can crowd the shoulder line.
Buying Guide: What To Check On Shoulder Straps
Small details separate a good strap from a forgettable one. When you’re shopping in person or online, run through this checklist.
Quality Cues For Epaulettes
| Feature | What To Look For | Why It Matters |
|---|---|---|
| Stitching | Even top-stitch; no loose threads at the point. | Clean lines help the strap sit flat and last longer. |
| Button Or Snap | Secure shank; reinforced underside. | Prevents tearing when you pull the tab snug. |
| Passant | Firm, neatly bar-tacked loop. | Keeps the tab aligned during wear. |
| Proportion | Width that suits the collar and lapel size. | Balanced scale keeps the shoulder line tidy. |
| Fabric Match | Same fabric and grain direction as the body. | Avoids color shift and puckering across the seam. |
| Angle | Parallel to the shoulder seam. | Prevents a droopy or skewed look. |
| Hardware Finish | Buttons match other trim on the jacket. | Gives a unified look with belts and cuff tabs. |
Care And Maintenance Tips
Epaulettes handle stress every time you swing a bag strap across the shoulder. Rotate the side you carry your bag on to spread wear. If the button loosens, re-stitch through the original holes with a waxed thread so the fabric doesn’t fray. On leather, use a small drop of leather cement on the button backer if it spins.
Pressing matters. When you iron a cotton trench, press with the tab unbuttoned so you don’t create a crease ridge near the button. Use a pressing cloth to avoid shine. On wool, steam rather than press to keep the strap edges soft. For tailored coats, a tailor can reset the tab if it twists after cleaning.
How Tailors Add Or Remove Epaulettes
Adding a strap is straightforward on unlined or partially lined jackets. The tailor drafts a tab to match the seam and top-stitch width, bar-tacks a passant under the shoulder seam allowance, and attaches a button on the front panel. Removing one is also simple: the tailor unpicks the tab and loop, closes the stitch holes with steam and gentle back-stitching, and moves the button to the inside as a spare.
On leather, the work takes longer because needle holes are permanent. A skilled leather shop will replace the tab with a matching patch or move it slightly to hide the old holes. That’s why many leather makers keep epaulettes as a design constant rather than a removable detail.
Frequently Mixed-Up Terms
Epaulette vs. Shoulder Mark
An epaulette is the strap on the garment. A shoulder mark (rank slide) is a separate cloth sleeve that slides over the strap and shows rank or identification. The two travel together in uniform settings, which is why people mix the terms.
Epaulette vs. Shoulder Board
Shoulder boards are stiffer inserts used on dress uniforms. Fashion epaulettes are soft tabs stitched into the coat. On civilian jackets, you rarely see true boards.
Quick Answers To Fit And Styling Questions
Do Epaulettes Suit Narrow Or Sloping Shoulders?
Yes. They add a touch of horizontal line, which can help the jacket sit cleaner across the top.
Can I Wear A Backpack With Epaulettes?
Yes. Button the tab and slide the strap under it on one side, then adjust the other side for comfort. This keeps the backpack from wandering across the collar.
Do Epaulettes Make A Coat Look Formal?
They can read sharp, but the fabric and cut decide the mood. A cotton trench with a simple tab feels relaxed. A long wool coat with padded tabs feels dressier.
Why This Detail Endures
Epaulettes earned their place by solving small daily problems and by framing the jacket’s top block. They stop straps from sliding, hold small items in a pinch, and add a clean line to the shoulder. The name, the shape, and the buttoned closure all point back to uniform design, which is why the feature looks “right” on trenches, field coats, and leather pieces alike. If someone asks, “What are the straps on the shoulders of jackets called?” you now have the tidy answer, plus the context to shop, style, and care for them with confidence.